Minion Pumpkin Stencil – About: By day I was a mechanical engineer; I innovate solutions and design everything from delivery devices for medical devices to payloads and delivery systems for spacecraft. The machine … More about jellmeister »
Find a pumpkin that is small in shape. You are looking for a pumpkin that is more “photographic” than “ground”. This is grown in a local area and sold on the side of the road, which is better than different supermarkets. You’ll also need extra pumpkins for arms and legs. Choose unripe vegetables if possible for energy.
Minion Pumpkin Stencil
Also, I used extra bits for the lighting (I made this for a performance contest so the lights are off)
Awesome Pumpkin Carving Ideas
I printed my design in Sharpie (other permanent markers are available). I tried to keep the marks on the skin areas and removed them, but I also used IPA and a kitchen towel to remove more marks as needed. Keep in mind that Sharpie can leave marks on the cut edges when dry, so try to avoid marking where you won’t cut or remove lines before cutting if possible.
For the glasses, I found an aerosol can of the right size and pulled it around. I added the iris and pupil by hand. I also added a line to the inside and a line to the outside of the mortar circle to add thickness and let the center line be cut so that the ring ring is clear.
To make the strap for the glasses I wrapped a rubber band around the pumpkin – this gets a nicer line than trying to just draw. Draw on the top side of the elastic, then place it on the bottom side of the tie (make sure it’s wide enough) and draw again. Adding additional details can help unify the design, but it’s not perfect.
It’s important to keep plenty of pumpkin on the surface. If at this point the face is too big or too small, it is easy to rub the design with IPA and do it again. It’s better to get it right now than to work hard and be unsatisfied later.
Pumpkin Pattern Pdf
Again, using a knitting needle (and looking at the reference photo for the parts) start adding lines for the cotton pants. The elastic band technique works really well here, note that the straps on the arms are at a slight angle due to the minion’s lack of shoulders. Check your reference image, it’s easy to make a mistake.
After drawing the basic shape of the front and back of the pants I went back and added details like buttons, pockets and the Gru Industries logo, although I erased them before cutting. , it’s good to know how it looks. look away. .
Using a short serrated knife, carefully cut off the top of the ring binder and turn the top of the package. This edge will be the edge between the carved pumpkin and the untouched skin, hiding the split.
Once the top is removed, use a metal spoon to remove the pulp and scrape the inside of the meat to create a smooth surface to reveal the light.
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Stuart the minion has a stylish center parting with a bit of hair that lays flat on each side.
Starting at the stem, I cut off three ‘hairs’ and scraped the material around. The rest of the upper part should be cut accordingly.
I used the serrated knife attached to the pumpkin and a saw to cut out the large areas.
Close to the hair and the handle the knife won’t go in, so I use a stainless steel tool and I have to remove the material. In places that can’t be reached, I use the tip of a scalpel – Be careful not to snap the blade like I did!
Tutorials For Next Level Pumpkin Carving
Using a stainless steel tool, remove the skin and the top layer of flesh from the minion skin areas. I cut the edges with a scalpel (outside the cut line), cut a groove in this cut with a loop tool and remove the remaining skin.
For the teeth, I cut deep into the flesh with a scalpel to transfer the shape of the teeth. I then removed the skin to a small depth, then dug deeper into the space between the teeth. Then I used the flip tool to make the teeth.
To outline the mouth when burning, I decided at the last minute to leave a thin line of skin for the lips. This is annoying, but it really adds to the mood when it’s lit in the dark. I carefully wiped away the sharp points as best I could, then trimmed the stained edges with a scalpel.
Cut the bottom of the second pumpkin as thin as you can and 25 mm thick. Place the slice cut side down on the cutting board and try to balance it as it should be straight so it doesn’t tilt or bow.
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Place the minion pumpkin on top and find the most stable place and mark all the visible areas except where you want the legs to stick out. Cut out the visible area, leaving the base for the pumpkin with two legs. A very stable base can be achieved because most of it is hidden under the main pumpkin.
In addition to carving shoe shapes, it is possible to cut them so that they are not visible. I left the tops of the shoes with the leather to make the color look better
The non-banana hand is a slender hand with a hand carved on the tip, which also uses a flip tool. You can see that the shape is controlled by the curve of the donor pumpkin, but most of the minion’s hands are curved to make it look good.
The hand holding the banana should be small in size. Hold the banana on the end and mark and cut a slit that fits the banana. Then cut as many things as you are confident without losing the required strength when cutting the sleeve. This arm should be stronger enough to handle the weight of the banana. Picking a small banana is very helpful.
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I recommend that all the cutting details be completed before the assembly to avoid having to deal with a weak hand like myself.
The hand holding the banana should be a very good mechanical attachment. I used two bamboo skewers cut down to 6 inches (150 mm). I inserted a 3 inch spear into the hand, then another to the side, so that it was perfectly parallel (with the face).
I marked where the hand would go by pressing the ends of the skewers to mark the meat. I used the skewer to make two more parallel holes in the pumpkin at right angles to hold the handle. Hand swings are easy, but must be strong.
Right now, I know it’s not happening, so I have to be careful to finish the story:
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Using two angled scalpel cuts to remove the thin skins, I added edges to the laces, details to the space, pockets and the Gru Industries logo (copied from the reference image) . I also made a series of radial cuts in the iris to separate the pupil.
There are three parallel vertical harvest sticks in the base that allow the main pumpkin to be gently placed on top for maximum comfort. Another cocktail stick is held in the other hand. By placing the banana in the hand keep the shape balanced.
In the past, the pumpkin had to be burned on fire, you need to add air holes. If I were to do it, I would add an eyelash to support the iris/pupil of the eye and remove the white of the eye. I take the mouth from behind the teeth.
But my pumpkin made for my work competition and bonfire at the office was a no-no. Luckily I have some GU4 light bulbs and pendant lights from my skirting board project. These are 12V which is great, safe and easy to operate with either an 8AA battery pack or a wall socket (I’ve used both).
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I used a 7mm wood screw bit to add the hole for the cable by hand and feed the cable through. My flashlights are angled from the base to make it easy to point upwards. 3 coconut sticks were added to hold it in place so it doesn’t roll. For convenience, I connected my 2.1mm solderless power outlet to the cable, plugged it into the wall socket (and put it outside, a battery pack).
I also enjoyed working with the local kids and how fun they were tricking out. Every Halloween we start carving pumpkins with one
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