3d Reindeer Pattern – Inspired by the holiday decorations on our friend’s dresser last Christmas, I decided to make a modern deer that, at least to me, looks a lot like a deer. After researching the profile of my inspiration sculpture, I created a new template that produced a realistic bandsaw deer in no time, and I’m giving it away for free!

The last result must be the first! Here are two deer tops of different sizes that I made for this project, one from maple and one from walnut. I really like how it turned out, so read on to see how it was made.

3d Reindeer Pattern

Quick note: this project includes a template design that I can download so you can make one of these; you can see below.

Reindeer On The Scrollsaw

This project was partly inspired by an old YouTube video by Matthias Wandel, where he made, in his own words, a “cheesy” deer on a band saw. I hate to say it…but I have to agree with his choice of words. While I love the idea of ​​making intricate Christmas decorations in a few easy steps – I have a hard time saying, “Hey…it looks like a deer!” It seems to me that the Grinch has always had a pet llama instead of a dog and just “did it” on his way to Whoville.

Much of the inspiration came from the ornaments our friends made on their capes last Christmas (ie pre-Covid). I love the look and know they got them from Crate and Barrel. When you looked closely at the vertical lines on the face of the sculpture – you know, like normal people – I realized that I could probably reproduce it in wood using a technique similar to Matthias’ bandsaw reindeer – that is, if I could get the front and back profiles right.

Having received permission from our friend to temporarily remove his clothes, I placed his deer on the ground and proceeded to take several pictures from the front and side, for use in my endeavours.

I transferred the images into my vector graphics tool, Adobe Illustrator, and placed the images on mine, locked, for viewing.

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The body was very easy to trace, however, I deviated from the graphic profile in a few places, such as around the ears, to make my profile look more geometrically pleasing. I drew the antlers as overlapping and intersecting lines, as this allowed me to shift and shift the points to show the profile of the antlers. After I drew those strokes, I converted them to an outline and did a merge command in Pathfinder to make them a solid object. To create smooth sweeps and blends between the various antler tips, I used Illustrator’s Corner Radius Tool to draw sharp corners to match the reference image. Once the horns and body are created, I can combine them into one shape, again using the Pathfinder and Corner Radius tools.

For the profile of the front and the vertical line mentioned above, I decided to make it in half, with the plan to take advantage of its symmetrical nature when finished.

After checking the front and side profiles, I made sure the two vector shapes were the same height and then created some horizontal guides to make sure the deer shape was aligned between the two sides, like in the belly of the deer and the deer. tip of the ear. Because I used my phone’s camera to take reference photos, and we don’t live in a perfectly orthogonal world, there was a bit of perspective in the photos, which caused the features to not immediately line up between the two images. . I decided that the side profile was the best source of truth, so I drew a point on the front profile by selecting a group of nearby points and moving them into place. They should be so that they fall in one place on the horizon. guide.

Now, it didn’t take long to trace the images, but I didn’t know if those traces made a very successful 3D solid until they were cut. But there was one way I could test the template without wasting wood, and that was to remove the layout of the template in a 3D rendering program, such as Fusion 360. I’m by no means a Fusion expert, but I thought it would do. for work if I can do what I’m trying to do. And so we do extrusions on each profile – one in the X dimension and one in the Z dimension, and then we do a Boolean function to show only the areas where the two faces collided – the same function as How to Use a Bandsaw Effectively. . It took me a while, but I figured out how to do it and was happy to know that my profile would create a recognizable shape with the band saw when cut through the wood.

Eight Little Reindeer

On a side note – after I designed this template last year, I tried to make one myself, but I picked a really bad piece of junk to try it on and let’s just say… it didn’t go well. There was a knot in his front leg and the horn fell and broke. It was too close to Christmas to try again last year, so I postponed the idea until this year. It’s 2020, what could happen?

I printed out and cut out the templates with a knife, then used basic kids glue to stick them to the wood to be cut.

(I ended up making two of them, but I’ll show you a photo/video of making one of the coconuts, because the bench was cleaner in those shots. Remember, the deer is now completely finished.)

I cut the face first, carefully tracing the line around the deer and stopping the two edges I cut.

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When I got back to my workbench, after the hot glue gun had warmed up, I glued the broken pieces in place, trying to put the glue only on the areas that would break. The reason we need to re-glue the cut pieces is to give us a flat surface to use on the bandsaw table when cutting out the other shapes of our template – not to mention that one piece has another piece of paper template glued together. . on.

After putting the cut pieces back together, I was able to cut out the second face. This dimension is certainly easier to cut, because the blade does not go through the same wood at once, which gives you the ability to move faster and turn more easily. I clamped my lines as smoothly and cleanly as possible, and where the area was too tight to turn cleanly, I made small “cuts” to give the blade room to change direction.

When the profile of the side is completely cut out, the pieces of fabric we attached should come right out, showing a satisfying view of the deer inside.

(If the back isn’t removed right away, you’ll end up with hot glue in the wrong places, so you’ll need to carefully remove it with a knife or similar.)

How To Make Plywood Reindeer (diy)

Everything so far is the easy part! Sanding, if you really want these smooth, will be very difficult, but hey, it’s a good excuse to get a podcast! And I should point out that you don’t have to focus on making them completely smooth – leaving traces of bandsaw lines behind to make them rustic is certainly acceptable – it just depends on the aesthetic you want to go for, that’s it. As for me, I wanted them clean and smooth, so I progressed with the sanding, going down to 60 grit to clean up all the band saw lines, up to 400 for a super smooth finish.

Once they were all sanded and smooth I used an air compressor to blow off the fine powder and some mineral spirits on a cloth to remove anything that could go wrong. I then decided to use an oil based polyurethane in a “satin” finish to give the deer a rich and warm look.

For the first coat, I placed each deer on a piece of plywood that I could turn on the bench while I sprayed the finish coat on each side.

That didn’t happen with the first layer, but with the next layer I started holding the deer in my hand as I fenced off his belly and antlers – two areas that were a bit hard to reach when he was standing on them. it has four legs

Santa Claus’ Reindeer Doll 3d Cross Stitch Animal Sewing Pattern Pdf

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